BY ROBIN GHOSH
ECONOMIST AND BUSINESS MENTOR
KOLKATA, 16 MARCH 2024:
Those of us who are born and raised in Delhi are lucky. Lucky in the sense – that you grow up in a city which is like a grand historical set with magical sound and characters walking just behind you.
Old Delhi, specifically is magical. Sprouted as Sahajanabad , the area spans between Red Fort and Khari Baoli. It is a treasure trove for walkers, a wonderful kaleidoscope of small shops selling perfumes, musical instruments, spices and small restaurants offering exotic foods and dishes.
When I was in college, a few of my friends who were foodies, used to visit old Delhi and specifically the area between Red Fort, Jama Masjid and Khari Baoli to hunt and taste lamb chops, halwa , chats and hot and crispy jalebi.
Our first stop use to be the Jalebiwalla at Daribakalan in Chandnichowk.
What a stuff it use to be.
Thick goden jalebi, dunked in syrup. Solid in shape and made with desi ghee – it use to be a mesmerizing item more so when we are told that it is basicall a Turkish delight.
Jalebi aside, there used to be a champion item in the same shop – mattar somosa a thin crispy item with stuffing of greenpeas.
Another shop which atracted our attention was Shyam Chat Wallwa in Chawribazar. There was a little twist. Instead of potato filling, the filling was made of spicy shredded cauliflower with chilly oil, onion jam and chickpeas.
The next stop usually used to be Parathe Walli Galli. A gallery of small shops selling wide varieties of parathas from alooparatha to mooli ki parathas and many more.
Here, we cut to and observe – what Vineet Bhatia,the first chef of Indian origin having received Michelin star in the UK- has to say on food and old Delhi.
Chef Vineet expresses that food from old Delhi has inspired him to create a number of off beat items like Chatak Chena Chat or Chhena Rasgulla, a savory item made of whipped yogurt, scoop of dahibhalla icecream with roasted cummins, chilly and pomegranate.
Chef Vineet also confirms that old Delhi’s galouti kebab and kakori kebab inspired him to create the same using rajma and served with chutney made of pistachios and mint.
As I concude, I must say that perception about Indian cusine is undergoing a spell of innovation and fusion. It is getting ready to fit the global taste and demand. Chefs like Vineet are pioneering this effort – Big Namaskar Sir.
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