BY INDER RAJ AHLUWALIA
( THE WRITER IS AN INTERNATIONALLY RENOWNED , MULTIPLE AWARD – WINNING TRAVEL JOURNALIST AND AUTHOR)
NEW DELHI | 6 AUGUST 2025
Twelve years is a long time to return anywhere, but somehow that principle didn’t seem to apply here. It’s just that kind of place and it was just one of those situations.
It was a different world. I was sipping chilled ‘thandai’ from a ‘kulhar’ (clay pot), admiring old black and white photos of family hunts and river forays. You’d have to dangle something truly alluring in front of me to get me out on the road at dawn, but there I was, zipping along Highway 24 like a ‘man on a mission’ ( as indeed I was), regaling my co-passengers with stories of my travels. We’d crossed the Jamuna Bridge, hit the highway, crossed two toll stations, by-passed Hapur, turned right off the highway and reached Kuchesar less than two hours from leaving home.
Pulling up at Kuchesar Fort, we were embraced by Kunwar Ajit Singh and his immensely likable family, that were dutifully awaiting us with garlands, coffee, sandwiches, and thandai.
Kuchesar Fort is mid-sized, and its façade subtle. It’s a genuine old fort, but also resembles a haveli, which gives it a mixed, somewhat deceptive look. A fountain nestles in the centre of the large front garden. Just beyond is a little hillock that served as a handy canon point, and beyond that is the surviving bit of the moat.
The starting point of the establishment is a large patio that overlooks the garden, and the thing to do here is to admire the original sundial that squats on the wall, and take in the pretty garden view.
One lives and breathes history here. A 17th Century edifice, the fort came into the possession of the Singh family-the erstwhile Jat rulers of Kuchesar- when the Mughal king, Najib-ud-Daula bestowed their forefathers with the title ‘Rao Bahadur’ and the jagir of Kuchesar, a grant subsequently made perpetual by the British government.
It’s been the family’s residence, and the present generation set about restoring and renovating the structure: the result being Rao Raj Vilas, a heritage hotel of style and pedigree.
Stricken by the ‘mood’, I went exploring. The entire built up area is given to corridors, courtyards, terraces and spacious, airy rooms tastefully embellished with family artifacts. Large, four-poster beds sit on mosaic and marble flooring; paintings and photos of former hunts stare solemnly at you; and colourful lamps dangle from high ceilings. The final, regal touch is provided by period furniture that adorns all the rooms and public areas.
Thanks to its split-level composition, the establishment’s actual size is disguised, and it looks smaller than it actually is.
My discovery tour was an exercise in history and heritage. On the ground floor is a small courtyard with a circular fountain, flanked by guest-rooms and a baithak – a private meeting room that can seat some twenty business guests.
The thirteen guest rooms have their own stories to tell. All different in size, shape and character, and each sporting a different ambience, the rooms are located at different points around the premises, with comfort being the common denominator. Quintessentially Mughal, arched lattice jharokas give an edge to the décor. Some have solid, original fort walls that once served as bastions, while some are oblong in shape and have high ceilings.
I bedded down in Rao Vilas that offers superb views on two sides. A high ceiling with wooden rafters stared down at me as I reclined myself on the bed. Not surprisingly, I slept soundly, and my morning wake-up call was a peacock with plumed feathers, dancing on the roof as though it was his mission.
Among the other suites, Rao Rani Vilas has a Kashmiri touch with colourful curtains and four-poster bed, with a view of the rear portion of the fort and a little temple. The bed is so high that you need to use a stool to reach it. Maharani Vilas is their spacious, premier room with a distinct feminine touch. It has its own dressing-room; photos of family hunts, a grand four-poster bed; and a magnificent view of the swimming pool.
While these rooms stand out with their exceptional period décor, the other rooms sport a more robust image.
For me, the jewel in the crown is the turquoise swimming pool with its angles and edges. Located in the centre of a courtyard flanked by the fort’s outer wall on one side, and inner ones with filigree balconies and jharokas on the other, this is where they set out a buffet meal and evening drinks. And this is where guests are expected to let their hair down and frolic around.
I skipped the swimming bit, but still had a swimmer’s appetite. Adjacent to the pool is Raj Bhoj, the tastefully appointed dining hall sporting arched pillars and generous sunlight. Fronting that is Rao Inder Mahal with its period, antique desk – the check-in area.
If ever there was a place for gourmets, this is it. Traditional cooking methods have yielded rich dividends in the form of farm-fresh vegetables, skillfully marinated meats and kebabs, biryanis and rice pilafs, yogurts with garnished cucumbers, and breads baked patiently over charcoal fires. Just the kind of food you’d expect, seek and eat in a ‘khandaani’ home in the country.
Make what you can of the Kuchesar Fort experience. Things can be as pleasant and relaxed as you make them out to be. The air is unpolluted, the surroundings tranquil, and the pace distinctly slower. Sugarcane fields stretch as far as the eye can see, keekar trees stand as sentinels, and fruit orchards bckon.
Not to be bypassed under any circumstances are the family’s mango orchards, notably the largest one that sprawls some five kilometres from the fort. Pluck up your courage and pluck a few mangoes. They don’t mind one stealing a few. For a somewhat more surrealistic experience, take a drive to the Ganges for a boat-ride with a difference. Or, just do what I do best. Stretch out on a large reclining chair with a tall drink.
Travel Facts:
Kuchesar is less than two hours drive from Delhi, via Hapur on National Highway 24.
It’s a year-round destination, but October through April allow you greater flexibility of activities.
A two-day package is ideal and allows one to relax and savour the myriad charms of the old fort and its environs.
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